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JENNIFER DOMENICK
The Gown Jungle
You can cut your way through it by taking lots of time to consider "the three F's": fashion, figure, and finances.


Some wedding trends stick: A slip dress dazzles on the svelte body of a slender celebrity, and suddenly, the same style is draped across mannequins in stores nationwide. 

But there are non-starters, too. Not long ago, Hollywood starlets started buying two wedding dresses—one for the wedding, another for the reception. In the distant alternate universe where people have entirely too much money, it must make sense. But in economic times that have punched virtually every other American in the gut, the trend hasn't caught on, even in the city's top boutiques.

"Buying two dresses is a trend in California among the celebrities," observes Betsy Robinson of Betsy Robinson's Bridal Collection. It was also happening among the New York elite, and, yes even in some Charm City weddings. But, for most brides, it's a laughable idea. "When brides can't decide, I say, 'Maybe you need two.' But I'm kidding around," Robinson says.

Actually, as Judy Muhl, co-owner of family-owned Juliet's Bridal Boutique, sees it, brides want more bang for the buck. What many brides want, she says, is a gown that they can do the salsa in. "Salsa is real big," she says. "People are getting dance lessons before the wedding." Another trend reports Muhl: Brides are staying in their gowns longer—all throughout the reception and sometimes even as they leave. "Why not wear it as long as you can?" Muhl asks.

In the past year, there have clearly been notable celebrity weddings—Jenna Bush, the outgoing president's daughter, married to Henry Hager, son of a Virginia politician; Canada's Autumn Kelly and Peter Phillips, Queen Elizabeth's grandson; Marie Cavallier of France and Danish Prince Joachim.  All produced lovely photographs, but none have rippled fashion-world waters.

Tips For the Perfect Gown

• Buy early: After the engagement, it is never too early to shop for a dress. Plan to make the purchase at least six months before the event.

• Budget: Wedding costs quickly mount. Let salon employees know what the budget is up front.

• Bring photos: Take magazine photos of designer gowns along for the shopping trip. Even if the price is over the top, boutique owners can get a sense of your style. But keep an open mind. A Hollywood goddess looks splendid in a size 2 sheathe, but not everyone does. A classic-A-line dress will flatter most women.

• Keep the location in mind: More brides are choosing destination weddings, boutique owners say. Some still want simplicity. They buy a bridesmaid's dress and use it as a gown. But some brides want more, even if they are packing for jet travel. "Now they are wearing formal dresses to destination weddings," says Betsy Robinson of Betsy Robinson's Bridal Collection.

• Consider staying power: Many women looking for a classic gown are also thinking about photos.  "A lot of girls say, "If I look at this in 20 years, is it going to be so trendy that I say, 'Why did I pick that out?'" says Judy Muhl, co-owner of Juliet's Bridal Boutique.

• Ask about dress designs that flatter: Generally, heavier women drift toward slimming silhouettes—dismissing strapless gowns. "A lot of people think they can't wear a strapless gown. They can," says Robinson. Strapless silhouettes can give the appearance of height.

These days, brides march to the beat of their own drummers, buying dresses that flatter and are comfortable. Designer websites feature slim silhouettes—sheaths and mermaid patterns or fit-and-flare dresses that hug the torso but flare at the bottom. The fabrics are soft, flowing chiffons and shantung.

"I don't think there are any hard and fast rules," says Robinson. She advises that brides should "put confidence in consultants. Let them show you different dresses, even if it isn't what you had in mind."

One salon owner has noticed that more designers are offering elaborate jeweled belts with their dresses. It can change the look of the dress. "We had one dress last year by Lazaro that came with a detachable belt," remembers Sharon Tamberino, general manager of Gamberdella Salon for Brides in Towson. This year other designers have done the same.

A bride having a destination wedding might wear a dress with a colored belt. When she returns, there will be a reception in Baltimore. "She is going to take the jeweled belt to change the look of the dress," Tamberino says.

Fashion experts tell brides that veils finish the look of a wedding dress. There are notable exceptions. In her outdoor wedding, Jenna Bush didn't wear a veil at all—opting for flowers in her loosely pulled-back blond hair. But salon owners say that isn't common. There are more women interested in blusher veils, says Muhl. "I think it's the formality of it. It is not more religious, but more traditional with the blusher." Brides, she says, "want grooms to lift the veil and go, 'Wow.'"

One way that the country's economic crunch is affecting bridal salons? Brides routinely come to look for gowns after work, Muhl observes, so they don't use gas making an extra trip. "We're not hurting or anything, but business is more unpredictable," Muhl says. "On days that we were busy before, it is just not the same now. A lot more women look at sale gowns than they used to. We're busier on weekday nights than even Saturdays."

And more brides are keeping their gown budgets down. Even at salons that carry more expensive designer labels, owners say women are budgeting $1,500 to $2,500. But there are more expensive gowns on the market. Gamberdella Salon for Brides, for example, carries dresses that cost $7,000. The designer belts can be purchased separately and range from $500 to $1,000.

 

Bridesmaids and Mothers

Increasingly, designers have developed bridesmaids' dresses that look more like evening gowns than typical bridesmaid designs. Part of the trick is choosing the right fabric. "Pink tulle—now, that is a bridesmaid's dress," says Robinson. "The same dress in navy cotton could be worn to a party. It's all about fabric and color."

At Juliet's, Muhl has seen "old-time rainbow weddings, where the colors are different for each bridesmaid." Another option is to allow bridesmaids to have dresses made in varying styles but in the same color and fabric. Bridesmaids choose a style that flatters them.

Many brides drift toward ordering tea-length dresses in an effort to offer the bridesmaids something that can be worn again. Costs for bridesmaids' dresses range from $175 to $300.

But the best news is for mother-of-the-brides, once relegated to stiff A-lines in dull tones. "The look is more updated, more colorful," says Tamberino. "Designers are not doing muted tones. There are brighter colors with a more youthful style in the special occasion line. They are really cute dresses." 


 



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